

1980s – 1990s OPULENCE AND COLOUR
Bulgari design crystalized into a recognizable image of gold, volume, colours, clean shapes and stylized motifs, precious gemstones combined with others of minor value. With Bulgari, jewels became “wearable”: less conventional, more precious, but suitable for any occasion. This concept was developed through modular jewels, where repeated elements featured a strong, recognizable design as in PARENTESI, inspired by the travertine junctions of the streets of Rome. Chokers and rigid necklaces were integrated with decorative elements, ranging from diamonds or emeralds to sapphires. In 1980 Bulgari also introduced a new way of mounting gemstones using coloured silk cords to complement outfits. The ’90s jewels have more subtle chromatic combinations and motifs and necklaces became less structured. Fringes of diamonds sunbursts replace the rigid collars of the ’80s. Yellow gold continued to be preferred. Collections were also inspired by Nature or unconventional materials: the Naturalia collection suggests a fish or shell pattern while the Chandra had spherical white porcelain components all decorated in relief.

Necklace in gold, polychrome gemstone and diamonds, 1988

'Kilim' bracelet in gold with emeralds, amethysts, rubies, cultured pearls and diamonds, 1988

Tubogas choker in gold with sapphires and diamonds, 1979

'Naturalia Marina' brooch in gold with sapphires, coral, cabochon emerald and diamonds, 1991

Necklace in gold with emeralds and diamonds, ca 1984

'Naturalia Marina' necklace in gold with pink tourmalines, peridots, blue topazes, citrines and diamonds, 1991

Necklace in gold with diamonds, 1994

Parentesi necklace and ring in gold with coloured gemstones, 1992 – 1998

Carré brooch in gold with natural pearl, amethysts, emeralds and diamonds, 1989

Chandra necklace in gold with porcelain and coloured gemstones, 1995