Bulgari icons

SERPENTI

Empowered by fascinating myths, since ancient times the snake, an emblem of wisdom, rebirth and vitality, and an ornament and talisman, is a constant presence in jewellery. BULGARI was one of the first twentieth-century jewellers to turn this millenary motif into a watch timepiece. In the very stylised models of the late 1940s, the supple body was of polished yellow gold, either in the flexible Tubogas bands or in gold mesh. Then, the serpent Tubogas versions explored every possible shape of case and dial while materials ranged from gold to steel.
In the 1960s, the serpents’ numerous separate elements simulated the reptile’s scales while the watchcase was concealed in its head. In the 1970s, the Tubogas technique provided the BULGARI snake watches with a cutting-edge look. Whether in a realistic or geometrically abstract manner, the snake winds along BULGARI’S history as an embodiment of its hallmarks: love for colour, juxtaposing materials, unmistakable wearability and state-of-the art goldsmith techniques.

An image published in the Jun 2011 issue of La Vie shows a yellow gold, diamond, and rubelite Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas watch

Snake bracelet-watches in gold with green enamel, rubies and diamonds, ca 1975

Bulgari Serpenti bracelet watch, Private Collection

Serpenti Tubogas" clutch in green galuchat skin with brass light pink gold plated snake body shaped frame closure with black enamel

Snake Tubogas bracelet-watch in gold with emeralds and diamonds, ca 1968

Bulgari Serpenti High Jewellery Collection gold watch-bracelet set with malachite eyes, emeralds and diamonds

Serpenti 'Seduttori' necklace in platinum with diamonds, emeralds and pavé diamonds, 2016

Bulgari Serpenti High Jewellery necklace in white gold with two pear shaped diamonds and diamond pavé

A yellow gold Serpenti belt created in 2010 for the Bulgari Heritage Collection

A detail of Bulgari Serpenti leather bag and High Jewellery bracelet

TUBOGAS

The BULGARI Tubogas is a flexible band with rounded contours produced without soldering and requiring hours of specialist work. Sleek and flexible, the Tubogas motif was inspired by the shape of the gas carrier pipes in use from the 1920s onwards. This technique, developed during the second half of the nineteenth century, was revived by Bulgari in the 1970s, becoming one of the firm’s trademarks.

Bulgari original drawings featuring Tubogas jewelry

White and yellow gold Tubogas Bulgari choker, bracelet and cuff

Tubogas rings in gold with emerald, 1992

Bulgari Tubogas Jewelry

Flared gold Tubogas watch-bracelet, circa 1972

Tubogas choker in two-colour gold with cornelian intaglio, emeralds, rubies, sapphires and diamonds, 1980

Advertsing campaign with embossed Bulgari logo and gold Tubogas necklace with a cabochon sapphire in a pavé-set diamond frame, 1978-1985

Three rows Tubogas necklace in yellow gold, 1983

Tubogas bracelet in steel and gold with citrine, peridot and green tourmaline, 1988

Tubogas choker and bracelet in steel and gold, 1982–1984

Bvlgari Bvlgari

The Bvlgari Bvlgari luxury watch was launched on the wave of a limited edition digital watch with the inscription “BULGARI ROMA” sent to the top 100 clients at Christmas in 1975.
In 1977, the huge success of the BULGARI ROMA model led to the launch of the Bvlgari Bvlgari timepiece, one of the most iconic designs in the history of horology. Even if not advertised, the buzz spread rapidly and attracted more and more clients to the Condotti store.
The engraved Bvlgari Bvlgari logo was integrated into the timepiece design: this became its notoriety. The inspiration came from ancient Roman coins, where the effigy of the emperor was surrounded by inscriptions of power and prestige. Likewise the cylindrical Bvlgari Bvlgari case was inspired by the columns of Roman temples – an apparently simple feature that is actually the result of meticulous architectural study marking the beginning of a new era of design and experimentation.

Natural hemp cord and leather form the straps on the 1975 BULGARI ROMA digital limited-edition gold watch

Bvlgari Bvlgari Tubogas watch with yellow gold case and snake bracelet with diamonds on dial

Bvlgari Bvlgari watch in gold with verdite dial, 1996

Gold and diamond Bvlgari Bvlgari pendants suspended from gold chains, 2009

Bvlgari Bvlgari yellow and white gold Tubogas snake watch- bracelet, circa 1980

Bvlgari Bvlgari gold and mother-of-pearl necklaces, 2008

A 1980s 'Dream' advertisement shows Bvlgari Bvlgari watches floating among clouds

A detail of the inscription plate at the base of Trajan’s Column in Rome displaying the style of ancient lettering Bulgari adopted for its logo

Bvlgari Bvlgari watch with gold case, black dial and gold chain, 1989

Bvlgari Bvlgari hobo bag, 2011

FIORE

For over 100 years, Bulgari has celebrated the natural beauty of the vibrant flower sign with bold creativity. Splendid flowers bloom in varieties of bright hues, or sparkle in the luminous dew of diamonds. A love for symmetry and harmony, typical of the Maison’s stylistic codes, blends marvellously with floral inspiration, filling it with unbounded elegance. The Tremblant brooches in diamonds radiate feminine appeal, quivering with every movement of the body. In other variants, gentle flower heads open up with a fresh and spontaneous design as if caressed by a tender breeze. Skilful stylisation, with saturated colours and bold shapes, intensifies the joyful energy of flowers. Buds and corollas bloom on the woman who wears them, crowning her beauty. Like modern garlands, yet free of the transience of nature, Bulgari captures and eternizes the magical splendour of flowers in timeless alluring creations.

MONETE

One of the most celebrated Bulgari icons ever, the pieces mounting antique coins have been introduced as a long-standing tradition in jewellery dating back to Ancient Rome. As an enthusiastic coin collector, Nicola Bulgari encouraged the Bulgari Monete jewels to make their debut in the ‘60s. In all the pieces the coin's structure remains unaltered and the mounts follow the contours highlighting the play of contrasts, the common denominator of these creations.
The premiere coin jewels made in 1966 were as elegant as they were modern, engraved with the name of the emperors, the dates they were in power and the type of coin. This educational element became a permanent part of the coin collections.

Sautoir in gold with silver coin of the Kingdom of Sicily, 1972

Several Monete necklaces featured in Japan Departures, 2011

A detail of the Baroness di Portanova’s gold and diamond Bulgari necklace with coins covering a chronology of English rulers

A horde of gold coins

Sautoir in three-colour gold with British silver coins and diamonds, ca 1973

Bulgari advertisement featuring coin jewelry

Monete sautoir and necklaces with coins, mother of pearl and diamonds, 2013

A Close-up of Monete bags, 2012

Macro view of the Bulgari gold and diamond necklace made in 2003 with 12 denarii in silver representing the 12 Caesars

Bulgari advertisement featuring coin jewelry

PARENTESI

In the 1980s Bulgari guessed that the time had come to make jewellery suit the lifestyle of modern women in the world of business who needed jewels to be worn from morning until night. The answer was modular jewellery, where each single element - providing high quality design and manufacture - could be produced in series, finished by hand and then connected to one another. The first shot of Bulgari modular jewellery was the Parentesi collection: Rome was a source of inspiration and the Parentesi sign came from a detail of the Eternal City pavements, the travertine junctions used to link the stone blocks.
Wearable, decorative, bold and suitable for many occasions, the Parentesi module has been one of the most extensively copied designs of its time.