Image from the year 1990 of the Bulgari history. Image from the year 1990 of the Bulgari history. Image from the year 1990 of the Bulgari history.

1990s: New beginnings and B.zero1

This decade was marked by the brand’s continuous pursuit of pioneering creativity in jewellery, blending different materials to create something truly unique and iconic.

The Chandra collection incorporated white porcelain spheres juxtaposed with precious and coloured stones, while steel was coupled with gold to amplify the avant-garde allure of creations crafted with the tubogas technique.

Image from the year 1990 of the Bulgari history. Image from the year 1990 of the Bulgari history. Image from the year 1990 of the Bulgari history.

Brandi Quinones wears Chandra, 1994. Ph. Tyen

Image from the year 1990 of the Bulgari history. Image from the year 1990 of the Bulgari history. Image from the year 1990 of the Bulgari history.

Brandi Quinones wears Chandra, 1994. Ph. Tyen

Image from the year 1990 of the Bulgari history. Image from the year 1990 of the Bulgari history. Image from the year 1990 of the Bulgari history.

In the realm of high jewellery, the compact shapes of the previous decade gave way to softer designs with diamond fringes spread in sunburst patterns over decolletés, while yellow gold continued to be the favoured metal.

The 1990s also saw a significant development in diversification, with the introduction of silk and leather accessories that reflected the brand’s drive for excellence and creative codes. In the wake of this relentless experimentation, the first fragrance — Bvlgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert — was also launched, exploring the olfactory note of green tea for the first time in the perfumery world. These movements reflected the Maison’s ability to adapt and thrive in an ever evolving luxury market.

Image from the year 1990 of the Bulgari history. Image from the year 1990 of the Bulgari history. Image from the year 1990 of the Bulgari history.

Advertising campaign Bvlgari Contemporary Italian Jewellery, 1996-2004. Ogilvy Italia

Image from the year 1990 of the Bulgari history. Image from the year 1990 of the Bulgari history. Image from the year 1990 of the Bulgari history.

Advertising campaign Bvlgari Contemporary Italian Jewellery, 1996-2004. Ogilvy Italia

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Advertising campaign Bvlgari Contemporary Italian Jewelry, 1996-2004. B.zero1 rings. Ogilvy Italia

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Advertising campaign Bvlgari Contemporary Italian Jewelry, 1996-2004. B.zero1 rings. Ogilvy Italia

The decade culminated in the launch of the iconic B.zero1 ring in 1999, a creation that celebrated the upcoming new millennium and quickly became an all-time bestseller. Merging the tubogas motif and the Bvlgari logo — the B.zero1 ring stood as a testament to the brand's visionary attitude and innovative design. Its industrial-inspired spiralled core was a nod to Bvlgari's commitment to thinking big and venturing into uncharted territories.

1990

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