1970, ECLECTIC CREATIVITY in High Jewelry

1970s - ECLECTIC CREATIVITY

The ‘70s brought a variety of motifs to Bulgari’s design: angular forms, vibrant colours, oval elements with cabochons, gold settings with diamonds and chains with rounded flattened links. All forms of jewellery were deployed, in particular sautoirs, the maxi fashion of the time. Bulgari turned to different inspiration: large cabochon or carved emeralds from 17th-century Indian tradition, the lotus flower motif, from Egyptian art, reinterpreted in coloured creations, a brooch with a view of Mount Fuji and sautoirs with a miniature Buddha pendant from the Far East. In tune with the Pop Art spirit, everyday objects like playing cards or ice creams became playful jewels meanwhile, following the Company expansion in the U.S.A. in 1973, the Star Spangled Banner line evoked the colours of the American flag. “Optical” jewels used to repeat geometrical motifs alternating two or three shades. Yellow gold conveyed the concept of wearable jewelry, becoming a Bulgari hallmark. It allowed even the most valuable jewels to be worn also in an informal manner.

Bulgari Jewelry Mount Fuji brooch in gold and platinum with mother-of-pearl, polychrome enamel and diamonds, 1971
Bulgari Jewelry Playing Card pendant and brooch in gold with mother-of pearl, coral, onyx and diamonds 1972 - 1975
Bulgari Jewelry Daisy brooch in platinum with emerald, colourless and fancy yellow diamonds, 1969
Bulgari Jewelry Brooch in gold with American silver coin and diamonds 1973
Bulgari Jewellery Buddha sautoir in gold with malachite, amethysts, emeralds, sapphires, lapis lazuli, rubies and diamonds 1971
Bulgari Star Spangled Banner brooch in gold with coral, lapis lazuli and diamonds 1975
Bulgari Jewellery Tubogas choker in two-colour gold with Greek silver coins 1974
Bulgari Jewellery Sautoir in gold with yellow and blue sapphires, agate, citrines and diamonds 1972
Bulgari Jewelry Ice Cream Cone brooches in gold with amethyst, pink coral, yellow and green chalcedony and diamonds 1986
Bulgari High Jewelry Necklace in gold with emerald, rubies and diamonds 1969

"Mount Fuji" brooch in gold and platinum with mother-of-pearl, polychrome enamel and diamonds, 1971

"Playing Card" pendant and brooch in gold with mother-of pearl, coral, onyx and diamonds, 1972 - 1975

“Daisy” brooch in platinum with emerald, colourless and fancy yellow diamonds, 1969

Brooch in gold with American silver coin and diamonds, 1973

“Buddha” sautoir in gold with malachite, amethysts, emeralds, sapphires, lapis lazuli, rubies and diamonds, 1971

"Star Spangled Banner" brooch in gold with coral, lapis lazuli and diamonds, ca 1975

Tubogas choker in two-colour gold with Greek silver coins, 1974

Sautoir in gold with yellow and blue sapphires, agate, citrines and diamonds, ca 1972

"Ice Cream Cone" brooches in gold with amethyst, pink coral, yellow and green chalcedony and diamonds, ca 1986

Necklace in gold with emerald, rubies and diamonds, 1969

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