Coloured Gemstones Supply Chain

When talking about gemstones, the supply chain is amongst the most complex in the jewellery world. Coloured gemstones are mined in over 60 countries, and the industry contributes to the livelihoods of millions of people worldwide. Although it is very difficult to determine the number of active coloured-gemstone mines, it is estimated that there are 200–300 in total, with about 80% of the material extracted in a small-scale, artisanal way (Artisanal and Small-Scale Mining, ASM).
Bvlgari is putting forth a rigorous model of corporate social responsibility, with special attention paid to coloured gemstones.

Craftsman looking at an emerald through a lens with sketch of a necklace and emeralds in the background. Craftsman looking at an emerald through a lens with sketch of a necklace and emeralds in the background. Craftsman looking at an emerald through a lens with sketch of a necklace and emeralds in the background.

Coloured gemstones supply chain

"Bvlgari is putting forth a rigorous model of corporate social responsibility, with special attention paid to coloured gemstones."

Craftsman placing a coloured gem with a tweezer on the sketch of a Bulgari necklace with flowers, close up. Craftsman placing a coloured gem with a tweezer on the sketch of a Bulgari necklace with flowers, close up. Craftsman placing a coloured gem with a tweezer on the sketch of a Bulgari necklace with flowers, close up.
Bulgari heritage flower brooch with cabochon rubies, emeralds and sapphires, and diamonds, close up. Bulgari heritage flower brooch with cabochon rubies, emeralds and sapphires, and diamonds, close up. Bulgari heritage flower brooch with cabochon rubies, emeralds and sapphires, and diamonds, close up.

Code of practices

Bvlgari was amongst the first to push for the inclusion of coloured gemstones in the scope of the new Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) Code of Practices 2019 Certification. The updated Code of Practices standard was released in 2019, and for the first time, it included rubies, sapphires and emeralds. Taking a phased approach, the organisation focused on the three types of precious stones to introduce change slowly but substantially. That kind of shift cannot happen overnight, as suppliers working within the value chain require time to start implementing the new standards and rules. To this end, as part of the LVMH Group, Bvlgari joined the Coloured Gemstones Working Group (CGWG), whose objectives and operative tools reflect Bvlgari’s effort to increase responsibility and transparency in such a fragmented supply chain. In April 2021, the CGWG announced the launch of the Gemstones and Jewellery Community Platform, a joint initiative inspired by strong sustainability commitments.

Firsthand suppliers

All coloured gemstones used by Bvlgari are purchased firsthand through established international markets and networks of traders. Bvlgari specifically requires each supplier and trader to buy gems respecting principles stated in its Supplier Code of Conduct.

A Bulgari cushion-cut ruby held by tweezers, dark background, close up. A Bulgari cushion-cut ruby held by tweezers, dark background, close up. A Bulgari cushion-cut ruby held by tweezers, dark background, close up.
Multiple Bulgari Heritage brooches and earrings with cabochon cut coloured gemstones, creative shot. Multiple Bulgari Heritage brooches and earrings with cabochon cut coloured gemstones, creative shot. Multiple Bulgari Heritage brooches and earrings with cabochon cut coloured gemstones, creative shot.

A collaborative approach with suppliers

Bvlgari believes that the best way to ensure real change within the coloured gemstones market is to establish partnerships with suppliers based on a code of ethics and internationally accepted industry standards for each type of gemstone and each country.

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