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1980 - 1990  OPULENCE AND COLOUR: gold, colour, clean shapes

1980s – 1990s OPULENCE AND COLOUR

Bulgari design crystalized into a recognizable image of gold, volume, colours, clean shapes and stylized motifs, precious gemstones combined with others of minor value. With Bulgari, jewels became “wearable”: less conventional, more precious, but suitable for any occasion. This concept was developed through modular jewels, where repeated elements featured a strong, recognizable design as in PARENTESI, inspired by the travertine junctions of the streets of Rome. Chokers and rigid necklaces were integrated with decorative elements, ranging from diamonds or emeralds to sapphires. In 1980 Bulgari also introduced a new way of mounting gemstones using coloured silk cords to complement outfits. The ’90s jewels have more subtle chromatic combinations and motifs and necklaces became less structured. Fringes of diamonds sunbursts replace the rigid collars of the ’80s. Yellow gold continued to be preferred. Collections were also inspired by Nature or unconventional materials: the Naturalia collection suggests a fish or shell pattern while the Chandra had spherical white porcelain components all decorated in relief.

Bulgari Jewelry Necklace in gold, polychrome gemstone and diamonds 1988

Necklace in gold, polychrome gemstone and diamonds, 1988

bulgari Kilim bracelet in gold with emeralds, amethysts, rubies, cultured pearls and diamonds 1988

'Kilim' bracelet in gold with emeralds, amethysts, rubies, cultured pearls and diamonds, 1988

Bulgari Heritage Tubogas choker in gold with sapphires and diamonds 1979

Tubogas choker in gold with sapphires and diamonds, 1979

Bulgari Naturalia Marina brooch in gold with sapphires, coral, cabochon emerald and diamonds 1991

'Naturalia Marina' brooch in gold with sapphires, coral, cabochon emerald and diamonds, 1991

Bulgari Jewellery Necklace in gold with emeralds and diamonds 1984

Necklace in gold with emeralds and diamonds, ca 1984

Bulgari Heritage Naturalia Marina necklace in gold with pink tourmalines 1991

'Naturalia Marina' necklace in gold with pink tourmalines, peridots, blue topazes, citrines and diamonds, 1991

Bulgari High Jewellery Necklace in gold with diamonds 1994

Necklace in gold with diamonds, 1994

Parentesi necklace and ring in gold with coloured gemstones 1992 – 1998

Parentesi necklace and ring in gold with coloured gemstones, 1992 – 1998

Bulgari High Jewelry Carré brooch in gold with natural pearl, amethysts, emeralds and diamonds 1989

Carré brooch in gold with natural pearl, amethysts, emeralds and diamonds, 1989

Bulgari Heritage Chandra necklace in gold with porcelain and coloured gemstones 1995

Chandra necklace in gold with porcelain and coloured gemstones, 1995